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Thread: CubeRevo HD PSU repair

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    CubeRevo HD PSU repair

    My Cube Revo HD has gone dead - no light comes on the screne when I switch on. Does anyone know where I might get a repair done please?

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    V.I.P Friendly-Face's Avatar
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    Anywhere they repaid TV and Radios should do :-)
    Have a look at your local place maybe there is some one, ask at local electronic stores they can be helpfull

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    If a DIY person?
    Open the box and look for bulging capacitors ( domed heads ) if found replace with equivelent or better quality of same rating ( remember correct polarity +/- orientation ).

    Have done this on numerous satellite decoder PSUs

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    Thanks Friendly-Face and skomedal.

    I had in fact tried the most likely local TV/Audio dealer *** repair shop, who've done several jobs for us over the years. They didn't want to know - quite reasonable since they didn't know the make. In fact I've since discovered that you can't get a wiring diagram for this. (I thought I found it on an AB Ipbox site in the Czech Republic, but can't find it today.) Still, I can try somewhere else, or maybe find someone who claims to repair PCBs.

    I have no competence in electronics, but some in electrics. I've had the PCB attached to the incoming supply out of the box, and everything looks fine and clean, all the little cylinders, and one big one, have smooth heads with crosses visible. No sign of anything having burnt out. There are three brown bits standing on two legs, which I thought might be fuses, and I've got continuity across the legs. There are some blue ones with no continuity across the legs. As all the blue ones are the same, and all the brown ones are the same, I have to assume that they should be like that! The PCB has two sets of wires connected to the main board - one of 15 wires, 14 white and one black (all labelled on the PCB), and one SATA to the HDD. I have ascertained that there is no voltage in the SATA cable. I have also checked that the on-off switch at the back works - there is a female fittings which attaches to two pins on the PCB and I have continuity in that female fitting when the switch is on, but not when it is off.

    Oh - and the mains plug works with another appliance - just in case you were asking!

    Thanks guys, and if anyone has any further thoughts, they would be gratefully received.

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    If you don't know much about electronics, don't go messing about with the inside of something that uses electricity, get someone who knows, or put it in the bin and buy a new one.

    Worst case scenario with you messing about - you kill yourself, or burn your house down.

    Electricity is dangerous and even the best electricians are not electronics engineers.......just saying.

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    V.I.P seagate1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrdude View Post
    If you don't know much about electronics, don't go messing about with the inside of something that uses electricity, get someone who knows, or put it in the bin and buy a new one.

    Worst case scenario with you messing about - you kill yourself, or burn your house down.

    Electricity is dangerous and even the best electricians are not electronics engineers.......just saying.
    i was going to say just about the same, bin it and buy a new one.

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    Thanks guys, points taken. It's just a replacement is about £5oo, so I was hoping to get a repair done and not to have to bin it.

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    Hi I don't know the the box you are talking about but I am an electronics engineer.
    I have found a pic on the net but cannot post it here for some reason.
    Can you try to post a pic of the power supply?
    Most interested in the end where the switch connects.

    It is a switch mode power supply and there is usually a fuse hidden somewhere but in my experience it is very rare for it to just be the fuse.

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    Well if you're sure it's the power supply look at it logically.

    All a psu does is output various power to the motherboard, 12v/8v/5v/3.3v etc and has various ground points. With a multimeter do a continuity test to check all the grounds are grounded. Then check each v+ line (the wires coming from the psu), to see if you have any voltage from them.

    If you don't get any power from any of them, check the plug fuse/and any fuses on the psu before the transformer. Check the input on the transformer for 240v and the output on the transformer for less than that. If you get voltage on any of the wires coming from the psu to the main motherboard - check what lines are not grounds and then see what each lines output is, if you get a wire that's not a ground or has any voltage - trace that line back to find out what components are broken.

    Most of the time it's a capacitor - these often dry out, with no visible damage so you don't know it's broken unless you unsolder it and check it with an ESR meter (cheap on ****). Alternately just google for 'electronic repair', and take it to a shop in your area to get checked out.

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    Here is a URL to the pic I found. Does it look familiar?
    http://www.digital-news.it/UserFiles...0L/interno.JPG

    You need to be careful working on switch mode PSU's because they work by rectifying the incoming 240V mains which produces around 350V dc across the big capacitor(cylinder as you called it).

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    Thank you all and sorry for the long silence. Well with one thing and another, Christmas cards, decorations and then a hard disk failure and two computer re-installs. Come to think of it, very little of the other.
    Yes, that picture is of my box. There’s also a disk drive – you can see the SATA power cable and the data cable loose in the middle.
    Somewhere along the line, I did get to check continuity between the grounds and the +voltages output. All were working except +5v – the meter might start at around 20v and then step slowly down to settle at 12v or it might start at around 4v and go back to almost nothing. Also, the SATA power cable doesn’t work – perhaps the same +5v failure. So thanks for the tip about tracing the fault, but that’s not my scene.
    So’ I’ll have another go at finding someone round here who’ll take on the repair.
    Thanks again

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    Looking at the pic I posted there is a black round device near to the 2 pin mains input connector which I think is a fuse.
    Check the markings on this device and post it here.
    It is probably marked on the circuit board as FS1 or similar you could check it for continuity.

    I don't really follow what you mean. Have you found any voltages eg. 12V or 5V ?
    I'm going off line now but will check back later.

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    Thanks Stroker - didn't really expect to hear from anyone today (explanation written Christmas Day but failed to send until today.).

    Sorry I wasn't clear. Yes, +8v, +12v, +30v, +24v were all working, but not +5v.

    The little black thing near the switch is labelled F81, snd specs are T3.15AL 250vAC. There is continuity to it from CNB2 - the pin from the switch and on to a brown bit standing on two legs on the PCB. There is continuity across the two legs and on to CB1 - a yellow rectangular box.

    Anyway, we are getting power to the far end of the PCB, but not 5v.

    Thanks - turkey time here now.

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    stroker (26-12-2016)

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    OK so it is a fuse and it is not blown.

    It's unusual to only lose one voltage on a switch mode power supply but then I thought it was strange when I saw 2 yellow transformers in the picture.
    It looks like there are 2 switch mode supplies on the circuit board, the one for low current supplies and the other for the high current 5V supply.
    So it could be the one switching device has gone or the over-voltage protection has triggered or has a problem.
    I think the 5V supply is on the right side of the board in the picture.

    Can you unplug the the cable to the main board and check for a short(continuity) between 5V and 0V on the power supply without the mains connected.
    Swap the meter leads and check again. If there is a short either the protection device is short circuit or possibly a capacitor on the output.

    The switching device is mounted on the heatsink above the right side yellow transformer.

    Can you also look for a part number on the board - looks like top left in the picture we may be able to find a replacement somewhere.

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    Digging a bit deeper it looks like the 5V supply only comes on when you come out of standby so try pressing the on button on the front panel.
    Got this idea from another form http://####rum.no/forum/satellitt/12...ower-feil.html
    Replace #### with avfo
    You may need to translate but there are some good pics on there.
    Model of supply appears to be DG-210VFD but cannot find one so far.

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    Very useful resource you tracked down. The pictures could be of my board, except model is just DG-210VFD without a revision number. Also their MT-210VFDS transformer is labelled ST-08-11 whereas mine is ST-08-06 and, given the other transformer is labelledST-08-17, I assume those aren't just different manufacturing dates.

    I'm getting about 90ohms between the +5v wire and the adjacent GND, same with the leads swapped round. (I don't have anything labelled 0v.)

    If the switching unit is on the heatsink between the MT-210VFDM transformer and the back, it is labelled IC91 and has five terminals. On the pic of the undersided of the board, they are shown near the top to the right of centre. If I number those:
    1Left
    2Right
    3Left
    4Right
    5Left

    I am getting continuity between 2 and 3, 2 and 5, 3 and 5.

    As regards the business of bringing the set out of stanby, I think I came across that a while back in another (English language!) discussion. But when I was fiddling with mine, I tried the button on the front panel as well with no joy. Also, IIRC when the set is in standby mode, the front panel screen is lit but mine is dead.

    Thanks again.

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    OK thanks for the info.
    The numbers on the transformers may well be date codes but no need to worry about them I think.

    90ohms on 5V is probably OK and yes GND and 0V are usually the same - sorry if I confused you.
    I cannot see the over-voltage protection circuit I was expecting so we can forget that for now.
    We won't worry about IC91 just yet.

    I am trying to work out how the standby thing works but it is not easy.
    I want you to check the voltage on 2 points on the output connector I don't think you have mentioned these before.
    They are marked as 5VS and P/S again measure between ground and each point.
    5VS is a low current 5V standby supply and P/S comes from the front panel and controlled by the standby switch.
    So 5VS should read about 5V if this is the case measure P/S and see if that changes when you press the switch.

    Let me know what readings you get. I suspect the 5VS supply may be faulty but we need to check to make sure.

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    IMG_4620[1].jpgIMG_4620[1].jpgThanks again for this stroker.
    Between GND and 5VS I’m getting 5.1v.
    First time round I didn’t check 3V3. Now I have, and get nothing.
    I haven’t been able to check the voltage at P/S yet. The fact is, I’ve done all my tests so far by unhooking the power output cables from the main board and then just using thin telephone wires connected at one end to a connector block strip and then pushing them in to the female parts of the cable strip. Of course, to test the P/S, the cables have to be connected to the main board, as the only connection to the front panel goes from there. So I thought I could just turn the PCB upside down and check from there. However, no success so far. It seems I can check for resistance between the little blobs of solder but not for voltage – I’ve tried with some I know exist. However, this is all new to me so I am being ultra cautious. And now, the light isn’t good enough, so will try again in the morning.
    I’ve now taken the front panel off, and taken the PCB out. It has quite a different arrangement from the one you found on the other resource (Pics 7-9). Mine is also DGStation but
    CubeRevo
    500 Front
    2008,04,21 VER A

    I hope the pic will upload.

    A common feature between mine and the other resource is the round button on their pic 9, to the left of where it says FILE and to the left again of the pictogram of a TV. This shows black flakes. So does mine, though less.

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    IMG_4620[1].jpgIMG_4620[1].jpgThanks again for this stroker.
    Between GND and 5VS I’m getting 5.1v.
    First time round I didn’t check 3V3. Now I have, and get nothing.
    I haven’t been able to check the voltage at P/S yet. The fact is, I’ve done all my tests so far by unhooking the power output cables from the main board and then just using thin telephone wires connected at one end to a connector block strip and then pushing them in to the female parts of the cable strip. Of course, to test the P/S, the cables have to be connected to the main board, as the only connection to the front panel goes from there. So I thought I could just turn the PCB upside down and check from there. However, no success so far. It seems I can check for resistance between the little blobs of solder but not for voltage – I’ve tried with some I know exist. However, this is all new to me so I am being ultra cautious. And now, the light isn’t good enough, so will try again in the morning.
    I’ve now taken the front panel off, and taken the PCB out. It has quite a different arrangement from the one you found on the other resource (Pics 7-9). Mine is also DGStation but
    CubeRevo
    500 Front
    2008,04,21 VER A

    I hope the pic will upload.

    A common feature between mine and the other resource is the round button on their pic 9, to the left of where it says FILE and to the left again of the pictogram of a TV. This shows black flakes. So does mine, though less.

  29. #20
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    OK I see your front panel is a little different we may need to look at that later. Black mark on display no need to worry about that just yet.

    Sorry you are nervous about doing these checks but the voltages at the output end of the board are quite low and they are isolated from the mains.
    You only really need to worry about the mains end of the board but you obviously need to be careful.

    You can check P/S another way.
    Above the output connector in line with the P/S pin there is a wire link on the board (J9 I think but not sure)
    There is another wire link J7 in line with the +5VS pin.
    So put board back in use the chassis/metalwork as GND and check voltage on the wire links.
    5VS shoud be 5.1V as you already have found then check P/S on the other link, also check when button pressed.

    If P/S is always 0V remove power and check for a short/continuity from P/S to GND leave meter on for a few seconds as there is a capacitor connected which may show as a short until it charges up. If the capacitor (C33 I think) is shorted it could be our problem. If shorted check again after unplugging cables to the front panel. If there is a still a short do not do the next step.

    Disconnect mains and unplug the cables from the front panel.
    Reconnect power and use a piece of wire/tweezers/long nosed pliers to short the 2 wire links mentioned above(J7 and J9?) together.
    Beware when you do this the unit may power on and fan start spinning etc. - just hoping?
    I am not sure if you need to hold the short in place or just momentarily.
    If it does power on the problem would appear to be on the front panel board.

    If it does not power up we need to check PC41 which is a small square black 4-pin device between the transformers.
    We may be able to force the output of PC41 to prove the switching stage works.
    I need to know results from above tests first.

    Also does you meter have a diode check setting?
    Can you solder and have a soldering iron?
    How far away from me are you - I am in Newport South Wales.

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