Greasing an Actuator Arm

[tighbuidhe]

Some of you may have read my other thread and know that I am at present trying to fix my 'dead' actuator.

I was wondering, before I go too far and bust it completely, how and where I should be greasing the arm?

Having split it into two parts I started to unscrew the worm drive, do I......

1. Unscrew the worm fully out and pump grease down through the nut into the inner tube part?
(Is there anything likely to be attached to the worm inside the inner part eg. nut, bearing etc. I stopped unwinding to seek advice before I heard the sound of 'bits' falling off inside the tube)

or

2. Just slap some grease on the worm and work in and out a few times?

Also, the two thrust ball bearings a little grease, oil, WD40 or leave dry once they have been cleaned.

Any help or advice would be very much appreciated guys.

Many Thanks



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[fred fickle]

My spare actuator is locked at the moment also so I am waiting for a decent day to check it ,I already sprayed wd40 down the shaft and on all the joints but I fear it may be the motor rather than the actuator that is the problem as my mates motor seized about three years ago with similar symtoms. Will update when the weather clears (some hope!!) Cheers

[TonyO]

I've repaired these many times, take them apart and lube them and clean them up and they go again, uless the motor has burned out.

I've had two 18" actuators in the last 20 years and the current one is still going !

[donki]

Wd40

[filmfan46]

I wish I only had 2 actuators in 20 years.They used to fail for me by the ball race breaking up and seizing where the arm actuator turns in the body.I think from memory they were 6000 or 6200 bearings. I could only get metal shielded ones from my bike supplier rather than the ddr type .Double rubber shields.
I used to strip the arm down, clean off the corrosion and regrease with a new bearing which lasted for another couple of years.The last type of arm wont let me unscrew the rod all the way off the arm as the end must be swaged in.Perhaps its because its an 18" actuator rather than the previous 12" ones,
This one actually seized on the nut requiring lots of wd 40 as said and rotating the arm to unseize it.I have yet to have a motor burn out.
I love the old 36 volt actuators.
By rotating the arm I mean disconnect it at the dish and turn the arm where it bolts on by its rose joint lubing with wd down the outside of the shaft both ways until the arm rotates out.Inside is a long threaded rod with a nut fasted to the shaft.The rose joint at the end stops the ram rotating in use and just turns internally.

[cosworth4x4]

the nut/thread will be the part that req the lubricating , but make sure the motor part is not seized before wasting youre time , that nut use to be plastic and wears if you can pull the threaded part in and out you will be constantly re-sinking to get full alignment.

wd40 is great for freeing off but evaporates within a few days leaving it bone dry , if you do free off with wd40 pack it with grease or get a spray grease with ptfe .

[tighbuidhe]

Sprayed loads of petrol and WD40 on to clean the worm up and went with option2.

Slapped marine waterproof grease on worm with a little on ball race.

A little Rocol anti-seize compound on the screws and its sliding in and out a treat

cheers guys

[satwyn]

well could not find the motor but i have another complete actuatur superjack 18 inch it's clean and works perfect if you could pick up you can have it

[tighbuidhe]

well could not find the motor but i have another complete actuatur superjack 18 inch it's clean and works perfect if you could pick up you can have it

Thanks for the offer m8 but I managed to repair my own, so all is well again