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Thread: Best dish mount in a field

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    Best dish mount in a field

    Hello
    Whats the best way to mount a 1.2x1.6 old connections dish in a field. It gets pretty windy and my last attempt at concreting a pole in worked for a while till it moved in the wind. Its now propped up again with scaffolding tubes but needs doing properly. The dish is quite heavy.
    Any ideas please.
    0c71

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    V.I.P Giga's Avatar
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    installation guide:
    Code:
    http://www.geo-orbit.org/sizepgs/grndpole.html

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    Thanks Giga
    Thats a realy good explaination.
    Better get digging again.

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    Giga's link looks pretty good. The method there called "pad pole" is more or less the same one that I used. It has the advantage that you can set rawbolts into concrete, and then adjust the nuts afterwards, to get the pole exactly vertical. If you mount it straight into the ground and you don't get it vertical first time, then you're stuck when the concrete sets.

    I used three large blocks of concrete, and not four, but the method was the same.

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    Senior Member AM556's Avatar
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    The problem with simply digging a hole and filling it with concrete is that water will get between the concrete and soil, this will fail.
    A suitable solution is to dig a cone shaped hole, drive metal stakes at 45 degrees as far as you can into the adjoining soil but still protruding into your hole. Obtain a metal plate, approx 9" square with M12 holes in each corner, use M12 threaded bar, bent 90 degrees at the bottom to prevent pull-out. Secure the plate 2" from the top of the plate with nuts top and bottom. This assembly will now sit just above the finished level of your concrete. Fill your hole with a good strength concrete and steel to reinforce (5-10mm dia is fine). You will now have, when disassembled, 4 M12 threads set in concrete that match the holes in your plate. Weld this plate to the base of your pole, square if possible but not essential. Run a nut down each of your studs but not as far as the concrete base, place the assembled pole with plate attached over the studs. Run the remaining nuts over the top. Your pole can now be made vertical by adjusting the twin nuts up and down accordingly.
    I have done this and it's rock solid, hope I have conveyed it correctly.

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    if you want to start at the deep end there is a nice 3m dish on e bay

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    Senior Member AM556's Avatar
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    No EZ/EL mount and 3 phase motors, now that'll be fun to setup

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    motor is supplied but not the iack arm type that would never move a big beast no ez el I think there are two motors one for elevation so no need for a polar mount inclined orbit satellites can also be tracked
    Last edited by satwyn; 10-04-2010 at 09:06 PM.

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    V.I.P tr8.'s Avatar
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    Both my dish's are in what may be called a field. as the are a long way from the house and the back garden is over an acre.
    The dishes are 1.2m and 1.8m Channel Masters. Both been up for over 10 years and been through of gales without moving.

    The poles are Ex Traffic light poles got from a council chap in the village. Then dug a hole about 5' down and drove the poles in then till top was a little over 5' above ground so about 8' - 9' into the ground.
    Then welded some cross bars to the pole below ground level and and ensured pole was upright. Back fill the hole with about 1 1/2 ton of concrete then back fill the pole with concrete as well. leave a week mount dish.
    my oldest dish is nearly 20 years old and never moved and the traffic pole only cost a drink as they were being replaced due to being hit by cars, so cheasp to do as well.

    Ps i know where there is a 2.4m Channel master was working with a 36v jack arm and the mount he used my 1.8m mount as a patern. He moved and left the dish and the current owner wants over £400 for it and does not use it. or understand what it is. I keep telling him i would give £100 as a play toy as it give no extra sats over my 1.8m.
    Would slot straight onto either of my poles!!.
    Last edited by tr8.; 11-04-2010 at 11:15 AM.

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